top of page
Russian Blue Female, Breeder
  • Instagram
  • Facebook
  • LinkedIn

Get to know us

We are a boutique cattery based in Southern Idaho. We breed TICA pedigreed, traditional, purebred, and authentic, Russian Blues! We first came to know and learn about Russian Blues when my husband and I were looking for another cat after our long-time cat and companion Georgia passed away at 22 years old. We were looking for a breed that would shed less and produce less Fel D1 protein, as my husband has allergies. Falling in love with their striking look, intelligence, and wonderful temperament, we wanted to give the opportunity to own, love, and cherish these amazing cats to other families while preserving the breed. Thus, our cattery was born. We focus on raising healthy well-tempered family cats. Our kittens are born and raised underfoot in our home and are cared for by my husband, myself, and our 4 children. We believe this not only socializes them but produces a more adaptable, well-handled cat making the transition from our loving home to yours as easy as possible. These precious cats are truly a unique breed with their double-coated fur and beautiful green eyes. They make great pets for a large family,  multi-pet, or one-person household.

 

  • Are Russian Blues hypoallergenic?
    Please read our "Allergies" Page
  • Are Russian Blues smart? Can you train them?
    Russian blues are very intelligent, are very trainable and like to explore and climb. The first year of age is boundary setting and they will learn what you expect and should respect that. They often carry items in their mouth which is fun and many can play fetch.
  • Are there and breed-specific behaviors or common habits, particularly in Blue Russian cats? How should I prepare my home for them?
    Russian Blues are highly intelligent and love to have prey-type play time, games and toys, puzzles, and also enjoy climbing. They also may play fetch with you! Due to their intellect if they have undesirable behaviors (climbing where you do not want them to etc.) you can remove them, correct them be repositioning them, and simply say "no". They will catch on to this. Russian Blues may be more outgoing in adolescence and more affectionate as they grow into adulthood, so just allowing opportunities to learn, play, explore and be loved physically will be all they ever desire. They will often "choose" a person, whomever spends the most time with them in the first ~6-12 weeks at your home, so keep in mind who's cat you want them to be. They will still love and connect with all family members but just may be partial for cuddles or care. They may "talk" when the need or want something (though not is an annoying way) but will communicate with you. They love treats like freeze dried fish, chicken organs, etc. and some may be very food driven which can be leveraged for training. Overall, they are wonderful, smart, and gentle animals and will find their spots within your home and heart once they arrive. If you have other pets, especially cats, we recommend quarantining for 21 days and many people will first allow them in one room while they become familiar and then into larger areas, before letting them roam the whole home.
  • How big do your Russian Blues get?
    Russian Blues are generally not large cats. Sizes vary, but we expect our females to grow to between 7-9 lbs, and our males to grow to between 10 and 12 lbs full grown (by 2 years)
  • Do Russian Blues “choose” a person?
    They tend to latch on a bit more to whomever they spend the most time with the first month or 2, but should be personable and fun with everyone and will adapt to your home and family!
  • Is there much temperament difference between a boy or girl cat? Does this breed mesh well with dogs ever?
    Boys will be a bit bigger than girls but the personality is typically cat-to-cat. That said, in a loving home, you can generally expect from Russians to have intelligence, affection (but not too much), independence (but not standoffishness), even temperament, climbing (where they are allowed), talking when they need something (but not annoyingly or often), and a little bit of mischief as kittens (ours like to open up cabinets and drawers to find toys). There are always outliers but these are typical. They should do fine with dogs depending on the dog's temperament, best if they are raised together but not required as long as the dog is not aggressive.
  • What are the typical health concerns for this breed, and what preventative measures have you implemented to maintain their well-being?
    There are no known health concerns with our line of Russian Blues, nor with the breed for that matter as far as we are aware. They are unlike some other breeds which were selectively bred, or inbred, to achieve a certain odd phenotype or unhealthy physical manifestation. Rather, Russian Blues have been bred as a preservation breed to conform to the standards of what each cat association deems adheres to the breed standard, stemming from the original cats most likely from the Russian Archangel Isles. Here is a little on history from our website. In addition, every one of our cats, including all our females, come from entirely different bloodlines, ensuring no inbreeding which is the only concern we have ever seen with the breed (as with all purebred cats). However, we take extensive measures to maintain wellbeing including frequent (often daily) litter box changes, socialization and interaction, play and exposure to different environments, a variety of diet, and exceptional cleanliness/husbandry standards.
  • On a scale of 1 to 5 (1 being super shy and 5 being really rambunctious), how would you rate your kittens?
    Typically we would see 2.5 to 3.5 kittens for Russian Blues at kitten age. We've seen only one "1", and one “4”.
  • How are the kittens prepared for their new homes?
    Our kittens are exposed to both adult cats, children (we have 4 little ones), adults, and various environments including structured play and unstructured, and supervised exploration. They play with various toys (mice, catnip based, light toys, plush, hiding toys etc.), begin using the litterbox at 5 weeks, and are generally handled daily. As they are nurtured and handled since birth by both adults and children they become confident, playful, and well-mannered considering. They will adapt to your living environment as well as many of his formative weeks are approaching soon.
  • Do your kittens receive a health exam?
    Yes, before they come home, they receive a full health exam at our veterinarian where lungs, heart, posture, weight, mucus membranes, and other critical systems and overall disposition are assessed. The doctor spends individual time with each kitten, as much as necessary, to make a health assessment. The visit summary/chart notes are included when the kitten goes home along with vaccine, visit, deworming, microchip and overall health summary
  • Does the kitten come dewormed?
    As our cats do not go outdoors and we deworm our Queens during pregnancy and/or after birth, we delay our kitten deworming schedule to avoid any potential unnecessary gastrointestinal upset. Each kitten will typically have a preventative administration of Pyrantel at ~11 weeks for good measure.
  • What vaccine do you use? What is your vaccine schedule?
    We use Merck Nobivac® Feline 1-HCP. Per Merck’s protocol, we administer the first dose at approximately 9 weeks and the second dose is due at 12 weeks, which we will administer if they are still within our care and the date do not fall within 72 hours of a travel event. Merck Nobivac® Feline 3-HCP is recommended for follow up vaccination the next year if desired
  • Does the kitten come microchipped?
    Yes they are microchipped just before they go home! You will be provided their microchip information.
  • I noticed none of your cats have collars in the photos - is that what you would recommend?
    Our cats do wear collars typically, though while they were kittens we did not have them wear them (they can be an encumbrance and accident hazard and hard to find good sizes). We often remove them (or they do), hence the photos. If you use a collar, we suggest a "break-away" style collar. We do put ID tags on our adults, with collars, in case they were ever to escape (which they never have).
  • Do you have recommendations for books, websites, or articles that we should read on training?
    Kittens will be litter box trained when they go home and we suggest using catnip to rub on any of the items you would like them to scratch on (they will know this intuitively but the catnip helps). If they get on or into anything you do not want them to, remove them and say "no", then place them nearby where you would like them to be instead (this will take repetition and time and they will likely pick up on your expectations within the first year, kittens are especially curious and difficult to manage behavior in, however setting expectations early will make you successful). Russian Blues can be quite trainable, depending on what you would like them to learn due to their intelligence and, due to their nature as a cat (and also intelligence) they can also be stubborn. Depending on what you are hoping to train for, here are some books you can consider (there are lots more!). · Amazon.com: Total Cat Mojo (Audible Audio Edition): Jackson Galaxy, Bobby Rock, Mikel Delgado, Sam Osheroff, Blackstone Audio, Inc.: Books · Amazon.com: The Trainable Cat: A Practical Guide to Making Life Happier for You and Your Cat (Audible Audio Edition): John Bradshaw, Paul Ansdell, Sarah Ellise, Dreamscape Media, LLC: Audible Books & Originals · Amazon.com: How to Clicker Train Your Cat: A Step-by-Step Guide to Teaching New Skills and Fun Tricks in 15 Minutes a Day: 9781648769450: Mantilla, Stephanie: Books
  • Are there any specific house plants we need to think about getting rid of because they might be dangerous to them?
    The ASPCA has this awesome resource! Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants (aspca.org)
  • Do you allow us to see our kitten before we purchase or receive it?
    Absolutely, we only sell our animals in such a way that the person buying can observe it, in-person if desired, prior to purchasing or bringing it home!
  • What payment methods do you offer?
    We prefer bank wire and accept as such with no fee. At our discretion we may offer additional payment methods as a convenience (credit cards via Quickbooks.), which incur a 4% processing and convenience fee.
  • Are your kittens exposed to children?
    Our 4 little girls play with the kittens every chance they get, they are used to being handled by children and take well to it! We love our playtime with them. Our kittens tend to be confident and playful with the children, are handled, carried, and hugged without concern and can be introduced right away to gentle, respectful, children however should not be overwhelmed.
  • What is your return policy?
    We have never had to use this, however, we warrant the health of the kitten for the first twelve (12) months of life against genetic hereditary life-threatening defects involving the heart, liver, and kidneys and will offer the next available replacement kitten as remedy. Under no circumstances shall the kitten be sold, leased or given away to any pet shop, research laboratory, animal shelter rehoming agency or similar facility. If the Purchaser for any reason is unable to care for the kitten, the Purchasers will return the kitten to Seller who will provide or find a suitable permanent home for the kitten, refunds will not be issued. The kitten is also guaranteed to be of sound health upon delivery to the Purchaser and the kitten’s health is guaranteed for a period of seventy-two (72) hours from time of delivery if examined by a veterinarian within that time. We have never had a return, however, if your veterinarian finds the cat to be unfit for sale due to a serious life threatening medical condition within 72 hours, the live kitten in question is to be returned returned to Seller in well cared for condition at Buyer’s expense within 48 hours of the previously mentioned veterinarian examination, or upon autopsy/necropsy (if deceased) or other definitive veterinary report of kitten death from any congenital or genetic defect (if deceased). Thereafter, we would replace the kitten with the next available kitten, however we do not issue refunds. Again, this has never occurred!
  • Regarding spaying/neutering, what are your general recommendations, and would you be open to discussing the possibility of delaying this procedure until they reach full maturity?
    We actually do recommend delaying, but not too long. As they will be your cat, you may do so as you desire, however they will not come with any breeding rights and therefore must not be bred which will be in our contract. We highly recommend that they be neutered by the time they are eight (8) months of age, or begin displaying sexually mature behaviors, whichever comes first. Six (6) months is typically ideal especially for both boys and girls, though cats can sexually mature at four (4) months, so we suggest between 4-6 months! Behaviors problems are common to all cats if you do not. Cat must be spayed/neutered by 12 months of age. TICA registration Breeder Slip will be provided to Purchaser only upon proof of spay or neuter completed by not later than 12 months of age.
  • How many females do you have breeding?
    At present, no more than four.
  • How does the pick of the litter option work?
    The pick of the litter option works in the following ways: 1) Where there are multiple kittens in your chosen sex, when your litter position comes up, you will have first choice at them (this provides priority in choice, where available) 2) Where there is no pick of the litter ahead of you, if we have an available kitten from a litter prior to your waitlist position, we will reach out to see if you would like your kitten early (this provides priority in line)
  • How will I get my kitten home?
    There are a few options to consider when purchasing from a distance when it comes to transportation. 1. You can fly in to Idaho and we will meet you at the airport. This is probably the best all-around option, we do have great flights into the local airport. 2. You can employ an in-flight nanny/courier/pet transporter to take the trip for you. You would just want to find one you are comfortable with! 3. There is always the option of driving in, some prefer a road trip which can work out quite well!
  • Is there a kitten courier service you recommend?
    We don't have a local kitten courier resource to recommend just yet from our area, however would suggest to look for one in your area which tends to work out quite well! If you search “pet nanny”, “in flight nanny”, “animal courier” service in your local area, you may be able to find one. We do have recommendations for some locations in Florida, Arizona, or Canada. They typically charge a nominal fee in addition to airfare to take the flight for you.
  • How does it work taking a pet through airport security Would you recommend asking for a private screening room or do you think kitten will be ok going through the metal detector with me?
    Yes pets through security is really easy, we have done so recently. They will wave you over and hand screen you with a wand most likely. Kittens may need to be removed from the carrier, in this case we suggest “scruffing” them for their and your safety in case they become startled. Don’t stress about it! You can request a private screening room if you feel uncomfortable.
  • What if they need to use the bathroom during travel?
    We always supply a piddle pad folded up in the carrier, and another underneath just in case. If your travel is not too awful far they may just hold it (this is common) until they get home, but it's nice in case they cannot.
  • Your website/process mentions that he comes with a carrier. What carrier do you provide? Do I need to bring one with me?
    You do not need to bring one, we will provide one, it is a simple soft-sided carrier which will be appropriate for in-flight (in cabin) use and for future use.
  • You recommend a 21 day quarantine period from other pets. Can you provide more information on why and how to do this? Is it strict quarantine or can we introduce them to other pets for short periods of time each day? When is it safe to do that, etc.?
    Quarantine is most important with other cats due to ease of disease transmission. With other cats, this is a strict rule. However, cats can get sick from dogs as well (albeit less likely) and this should be taken into consideration. For introduction to dogs: I would begin by introducing your dog to the smell of your cat with his belongings, a blanket etc. and also that you allow your dog to see your kitten as soon as they come home so you can gauge their reaction. Some, even very mellow dogs are also prey-driven with small animals, especially cats, regardless of history with animals, please take this into consideration. For introducing to both dogs or cats, ensure no signs of aggression before allowing any contact. We suggest keeping a close eye on your kitten and your dog/cat during that 21 day period in case either of them develop any kind of minor cold or otherwise (sneezing etc.), if there are no outward signs of infection with communicable disease (your kitten will be checked by veterinarian prior to leaving but your dog/cat may not be), I would allow them to interact without being physical (one kenneled, the other out, or allow the dog/cat to be nearby while handling the kitten) or be nearby to one another /but not exchange mucous/fluid (touch noses, lick, share water, access to litter box, etc.) for at least -21 days. This way you can be certain and feel confident. We quarantine all our animals coming in to our home for 21-30 days no matter what, especially considering kittens.
  • What food do you suggest?
    For food we suggest Purina Pro Plan kitten or Royal Canin Mother and babycat/kitten. We recently switched to Purina and are liking it so far. You can do a mix of wet and dry, free feeding dry and offering wet if/as much as you like. Tractor supply also has an affordable high quality dry food we feed called "4 health all life stages". We recommend maintaining the kitten on a similar kitten diet and transitioning the kitten to an indoor adult formula at eight months of age.
  • What litter does the kitten use?
    The kitten will be raised on pine pellet litter and will have had at least 6 weeks of litter box training (we've never had of one of our kittens not trained when they got home), but you can use clay litter if you like, they should adapt easily.
  • What else do they need to feel at home? Toys? Something to scratch? A bed?
    Something to scratch is a must, you can attract them to it with catnip and then the best toys will be anything prey-like. Mice on a string, mice with catnip, anything to chase, bat or carry. They will find their favorite spot to sleep which may or may not be a bed you offer but they will use a bed.
  • Do kittens chew on things like puppies do?
    That's a great question! They don't chew on things as puppies do, but they are curious and will put things in their mouths. If they find something entertaining, they will find a way to play with it sometimes running around with it like a trophy. Kittens may do this with things like Legos and we would be cautious with choking hazards with such small pieces. Providing catnip toys helps with this! We haven’t had an issue with Duplos for context on size. They typically grow out of this behavior and begin to "hunt" flies (or mice, which if there are any, they will find!)

Archangel Cat

bottom of page